Roll with it, baby

New York’s been an absolute icebox the last few days, so today I sought out summer on a plate – the classic New England lobster roll. Growing up on Long Island, I have always felt a strong kinship with the coastal states to the north, a shared love of the sea and shore, lighthouses, and especially seafood cooked in shacks. Even though I get horribly sick on boats, have only sailed once in my life (and got horribly sick), and sank my only peacoat in Central Park lake, I can’t help but mythologize the crisp Yankee lifestyle. So, in search of a little food therapy, I walked into Ed’s Lobster Bar on Lafayette and Spring St. 

It’s a narrow space, with a long marble bar running nearly the length of the restaurant. I was greeted warmly at the bar and invited to take any seat (Ed’s does not take reservations). Looking around, I admired the clean, uncluttered design. Lots of whites, grays, and silvers. Not a lobster trap in sight. I decided to start with a bowl of New England Clam Chowder and have the lobster roll as my main course. I spied a delicious sounding “muddled lemonade or limeade” on the menu, so I ordered a glass of limeade. My server made the limeade in front of me, forcefully muddling several lime wedges over sugar with a wooden implement, and adding ice and water. It was the most delicious and refreshing drink that I’ve had in a long time. The clam chowder was expertly done, with perfectly cut pieces of clam, onion, and bacon floating in a creamy broth, garnished with an in-shell clam and fresh chives. The lobster roll was packed with a generous serving of lobster, mayo, and chives sitting neatly in a well-buttered and toasted bun. On the side were golden french fries, seasoned with sea salt and a serving of Ed’s pickles, which are thin slices of cucumber steeped in vinegar. The lobster roll at Ed’s is of the “dry” variety, which means much less mayo than the rolls served at someplace like Mary’s Fish Camp. It was a good roll, but I felt that the meat was too shredded (I prefer chunks), and the flavor of the lobster was a mite too fishy and briny and not quite sweet enough (paying $27 for anything served on a hot dog bun can make one a little hyper-critical). Still, it was a wonderful lunch and I’m sure I’ll be back the next teeth-chattering day.