If you ever find yourself in Kips Bay, a neighborhood of aging frat boys just south of the UN, be sure to check out Penelope restaurant at Lexington and 30th. Penelope is the epitome of the kind of restaurant that proliferated in New York over the last eight years of Republican rule, the comfort food restaurant. What gives with comfort food? Don’t get me wrong, I’m a devotee of the stuff, will eat it morning, noon, and night, but with all of the comfort food that is being pushed out there right now, I have to wonder – why in heaven’s name do we all need so much comforting? Are things so bad that the only way we can feel good about ourselves is by cramming down donuts, mac and cheese, cheeseburgers, and hot fudge sundaes? There’s something slightly juvenile – scratch that – infantile about this type of eating that is impossible to ignore. Sometimes, I just want to scream “put the freaking red velvet cupcake down and start dealing with your issues!”
All of this being said, I can’t help but love Penelope. A true neighborhood joint that offers quality, home cooking in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The servers are all young, attractive, and approachable. Slightly granola, but not in an off-putting way (except for that one guy in the sarong). For the Kips Bay twenty-somethings that wish they were back in mommy’s kitchen, Penelope offers updated comfort classics, bang-up baked goods, endless refills of coffee, and plenty of booze. I recommend the fontina and white cheddar mac and cheese, as far as I’m concerned, the best mac and cheese in the city. The “nice” meatballs is another favorite – chicken meatballs, melted fontina (love that fontina), tomato, and pesto mayo on a hollowed out baguette. Vegetarian? My wife rocks the warm brie and green apple sandwich with honey mustard on seven-grain toast. You will not be disappointed, my friend. But after the last plate has been cleared, promise me you’ll go back to being the grown-up I know and love.
